Darlington & Stockton Times

‘Sit-down experience matched a fine take-away.’

We’d popped into the Amontola, in Richmond, for a take-away a few months ago and, when we decided to treat ourselves to a sit-down meal there, we held high hopes. We weren’t disappointed.

The warm ambience of the tiny bar, where complementary liqueurs are served while you wait for your carry-out, is extended to the surprisingly large dining area.

It’s undoubtedly Indian – red eastern dome-shaped panels display romanticised landscapes and a screen shows a sort of Bollywood version of MTV, the music just audible over the hum of conversation – but there’s not an inch of flock wallpaper or a hint of sitar music.

The place is spotless and the lighting is just right – bright enough to read the extensive menu and see what you’re eating, but sufficiently subdued to create a pleasant atmosphere.

The waiters are attentive and efficient, yet there is no feeling of being rushed and there was a welcome gap between the fairly ample starters and the main course.

I began with chicken pakora (£2.80), tasty morsels of breast meat in batter, while my companion plumped for tandoori cocktail (£3.20), a mixture of tandoori chicken, chicken tikka and lamb tikka. Both came with fresh, crisp salads of lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, chickpeas and a dish of raita.

A request for a glass of was met with a huge jug, complete with ice and lemon, and two glasses.

Being a bit of a curry wimp, I opted for a medium-spiced lamb tikka bhuna (£6.50), which was delightfully aromatic and full of spicy flavour without burning the mouth. My companion – a braver soul – went for the exotically named medium-hot kashi murgh bhuna (£6.95), chicken, lamb, keema and potato in a garlic, tomato and coriander sauce. He pronounced is delicious and mopped up every last speck of sauce with a Peshwari nan (£1.95). We also shared a pilau rice (£2.05), which was easily enough for two.

Scented towels and segments of orange freshened the hands and the palate while we perused the puddings menu. While the offerings – mainly exotic ice creams flavoured with fruit such as coconut and pineapple (£1.75 to £3.25) – looked tempting, our full tummies told us to give it a miss.

With a couple of rounds of drinks – house wine at £1.80 a glass and deliciously ice cold Cobra beer at £3.60 for a 660ml bottle – the bill came to a very reasonable £33.40. It arrived with complementary shot glasses of a creamy sweet liqueur – not to my taste but a nice touch.

It was difficult to find fault with the evening but, if pressed, I’d have liked linen napkins instead of paper ones – but that really would be nit picking.

There are more than 20 starters on the menu, a staggering 120 main dishes, including a wide choice of vegetarian options, and 40-odd rices, vegetables and accompaniments. There is even a small selection of English dishes, with fish fingers and chips for children.

The restaurant, highly recommended in the Cobra Good Curry Guide, is managed by the Amontola brothers – Moklis, Sam and Ali and seats more than 100.  It’s open seven evenings a week and it is best to book for Fridays and Saturdays.

Ratings (out of four)

Food quality ****   Service ****   Surroundings ***   Value ****

A copy of this press cutting and other press cuttings can be provided at the restaurant.